Not many people have heard of Yuki City, a small town located in the Ibaraki prefecture about two hours from Tokyo. While the bright lights and epic crowds of Tokyo may be exciting, what you can find in Yuki City is unlike anywhere else. Lying under the unassuming surface of this town are centuries of history and culture, with multiple industries thriving off the abundance of pure, natural resources that the land provides. Take, for example, Yuki’s silk. Yuki is one of the most famous places to get luxurious silk in Japan, which is then used to make elegant kimonos and other high-end products. This is only because of Yuki’s expanse of mulberry trees; silkworms feed on the leaves which allows Yuki’s silk production and textile industry to flourish as it does today.
Yuki, as a city, has withstood the trials of time. Some of the shops you’ll see on the main streets are amazingly 6 or 7 generations old, passed down within the families. For history fans, you might recognize the name Yuki Hideyasu, the second son of the famous shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. He was given to the Yuki clan that governed the area. You can find out more in Yuki’s Kurabikan, where Yuki’s historical arts and artifacts are on display.
Yuki-tsumugi: An Irreplaceable Art Form
The techniques used to make Yuki-tsumugi silk date back to the Nara Period (710-794 CE), but it was in the Muromachi Era (1336-1573 CE) that Yuki-tsumugi became what it is today. It became well-known as the best quality silk cloth that one could get, and quickly spread throughout the country.
Yuki-tsumugi silk is made with over thirty steps, but there are three touted as the most important.
- The first is hand-spinning the thread from silkworm cocoons. The fibers are gently teased out by a craftsman and twisted, with the help of some water or even saliva in some cases, into thin yet strong threads.
- The next step is tying up and dying the threads, with the tied sections working to preserve the original color of the thread to produce complex patterns within the thread itself.
- Lastly is weaving all the threads together to form one cohesive fabric. This is done with a special loom, called a jibata, which has a backpiece that allows the user to control things like the tension of the vertical threads with their own body movements.
These three processes are designated as an Intangible Cultural Property in Japan and produce high-quality fabrics that can last for three generations. It’s this dedication to quality and the use of traditional techniques that lead to a single kimono taking up to 1 or 2 years to make! Kimonos are not all that are produced here, though. Scarves, fans, and wallets are also great products of Yuki! You can even buy a whole suit made from Yuki-tsumugi silk! These are the ideal gifts for loved ones, or even for those who want to treat themselves to a quality, long-lasting piece.
We got to experience Yuki-tsumugi silk in all its different forms. For one, we had the pleasure of wearing kimono made of Yuki-tsumugi silk. With all the different patterns and colors, everyone looked lovely. However, Yuki-tsumugi silk has a special property to retain body heat better than other fabrics, so note that winter may be a better time to try on Yuki-tsumugi kimonos if you’re looking to do so. At the workshop itself, we got to weave our own souvenir coasters on looms. Though these foot-operated looms were different from the jibata looms, it was incredibly fun to learn how to operate them. Making the coasters was easy and quick as well! Even for beginners, it only took a few minutes to learn the steps and then around 10 minutes to make the coaster itself. Other experiences included coin purse making (a cute and practical souvenir) and attempting to hand-spin the thread from cocoon silk (harder than you may think!)
Buyu Sake Brewery: All About Nihonshu
For those unfamiliar with nihonshu, it’s a type of Japanese alcohol made by fermenting rice. There are six different types, classified by factors like whether or not distilled alcohol was added, or the rice-to-polishing ratio. Buyu Sake Brewery has been around since 1867, and you better bet they’re masters of their craft. They use a three-season brewing system to best monitor the fermentation process and ensure the highest quality of nihonshu.
We tasted Buyu Sake Brewery’s nihonshu for ourselves, and it was just as good as we expected. Chilled and refreshing, it made for a great drink in the middle of the sweltering summer heat. For those who don’t drink alcohol, no worries! You can also try their amazake, which is another drink made from fermented rice but contains no alcohol. Relying on the natural sweetness of the rice, the amazake was also delicious.
Akiba Koji Miso Brewery: Towering Barrels of Miso
Just down the street from Buyu, you’ll find Akiba Koji Miso Brewery. As the name suggests, they specialize in making miso. The process starts with taking soybeans and soaking them, then boiling them. Steamed rice and koji, a type of mold used to facilitate fermentation, are added to the soybeans, and they are left alone at room temperature to ferment. The biggest barrels at the brewery can hold up to 8 tons and take up to 2-3 years to fully ferment.
Both Buyu Sake Brewery and Akiba Koji Miso Brewery make use of pure water of the Kinugawa River to make each of their products. The water is also utilized in the nearby KURA:SAUNA, so don’t forget to bring your bathing suit and take some time to relax and take in/bathe in Yuki’s atmosphere.
Kokenji Temple: Finding Yourself
Stepping into Kokenji’s Main Hall, you’ll find your breath taken away by all the stunning ornamental decor surrounding you. The elaborate gold ornamental hangings and lanterns above give a sense of extravagance, while the intricate wood carvings will have you staring in awe.
Our ten-minute meditation experience was held in the aptly named Meditation Hall and was a much-needed break from the summer heat. Those ten minutes gave us a chance to recenter ourselves and left us feeling ready to face the rest of the day! We were also offered umeboshi in sugar water, alleged to help energize oneself, and manjuu.
Seasonal Events: Different Sides of Yuki City
There’s never a wrong time to visit Yuki City! The town holds several different events throughout the year from New Year’s shrine visits to summer festivals. Even if you can’t catch one of these, Yuki’s seasonal sights are not to be missed; there are several different types of flowers you can catch blooming in Yuki’s various parks and roads throughout the year.
Where to Stay?
Our accommodation put us in the stunning HOTEL (TEN). It blends Japanese aesthetics with modern convenience. The bedroom is a beautiful traditional Japanese-style room with tatami mats and futons, while the first floor has an impressive kitchen and several different places to lounge. With a beautiful front yard included, it’s the perfect place to unwind and spend a peaceful night.
What is There to Eat?
For breakfast, we had a wonderful plate of different Japanese dishes at yuinowa, a cafe and coworking space. The menu truly makes use of Yuki’s local and seasonal ingredients, and it tasted amazing. It’s something you can only get in Yuki City and a definite recommendation from us.
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How to Get to Yuki City?
If you’re in Tokyo, depending on where you are, you can take the Tohoku Shinkansen, JR Utsunomiya Line, or JR Shonan Shinjuku Line to get to Oyama Station. From there, just take the JR Mito Line directly to Yuki Station.
The Heart of Yuki City
No matter what brings you to Yuki City, the atmosphere and people are sure to win you over. Everyone we met was incredibly kind and welcoming to us. You can truly feel the passion and love for this small town overflowing from everybody who lives here. Yuki City is a hidden gem in Japan and an unforgettable experience.
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